I have received some tips from some of you via e-mail. This is convenient for me because I don't have to enter the tips into my computer. I can also notify the sender in a jiffy with a "Thanks for the tip!" so the sender knows I received the message. I can also read about any graphic format file. This brings up a couple of other points. I don't know what location the e-mail is from and does the contributor and their e-mail address included? I haven't had much flying time recently because I have been in a building mode. When I build like this, it is not uncommon for me to pump out six or seven airplanes. Then I get burned out on building and it is time for flying. Here are a few tips I came up with recently.

Clamps

Not all clamps are made of metal or have bolts to tighten the clamp. I like the metal spring clamps that are about four inches long. These clamps are fairly strong. I have mentioned other types of clamps in previous articles. My most used clamp is masking tape. I use masking tape for holding the leading, trailing and tips for wings. I also use it to hold canopies, turtlenecks, and hatches in place for fitting and gluing. I use it everywhere my imagination lets me. I will use at least a full roll of 3/4 inch masking tape on an airplane before painting or covering. I also use C/A glue to hold parts for alignment or even to hold parts together while a different type of glue is drying. And don't forget 'T' pins, 'C' clamps, rubber bands, bar clamps, and weights just to name a few. What method to use when a clamp is needed is left entirely left up to your imagination.

Jig for Drilling

When I use a beveled edge for a control surface and use hinge points, I make jig so when I drill the hole into the beveled edge of the control surface, it will go in straight.

When making the bevel on the control surface, I cut the bevel with my band saw. I save about one inch of both the top and bottom cuts for my jig. I take a piece of scrap 114 in plywood and glue it to the two bevel scraps. I drill a proper sized hole for the hinge points into the center of the bevel of the jig with my drill press. After locating the location of the hinges I place the drill guide jig over the bevel and drill the hole for the hinge point.

Improved Wheels

Paul Samaras, of Lakewood, CO has found a source of those hard to get nylon wheels manufactured by Kavan. The source is Hobby Lobby and the stock numbers are 3 inch HLFK 164, 3.5 inch HLFK 165, 4 inch HLFK 166. (Precision Aviation might also carry these wheels.) These wheels will hold up to 30 pounds and do not go flat. If you are landing on a hard surface; rubber wheels tend to grip the runway if the plane is sliding sideways. These nylon wheels will slide instead of gripping without going over on a wing tip. They can even slide at a 90-degree angle. The hubs will tend to break on the bigger wheels. Paul strongly recommends aluminum hubs he has made to replace the plastic hubs. Paul said he would make you a set of aluminum hubs for the wheels for about $15.00. He doesn't make anything on them but they sure make a perfect combo. Paul continues to explain how to swap out the hubs.

To change out the hub, hold the hub on the spoke with a pair of pliers and run a 3/8-inch drill bit through the center of the wheel. If you allow the hub to spin inside the wheel you will mess up the wheel, so be careful. The brass wheel inserts that come with the hubs handle 1/4 inch to 1/8-inch axles. Paul suggests that you drill a hole in a piece of wood to hold the tubing and carefully solder both ends of the brass tubing pieces together. Take care not to get any solder inside or outside of the tubing. Then before you totally tighten the halves together, press the brass tubing into the hub with lock-tite and then tighten the hubs together. Paul's e-mail address is maras@pcisys.net.

Baking Soda

This idea, sent by Paul, has been around for a long time and is still a good tip for you beginners. Thin C/A plus the use of baking soda will make one of the strongest joints you've seen. The bad thing is it's hard to sand. How do you dispense the correct amount of baking soda without getting too much in the wrong places? Paul uses a 2 oz. ear syringe from the drug store and makes a brass fitting for the end. Telescope the brass tubing down to the smallest size available and solder together. You will be pouring soda out and sucking it up into the souring. By putting the brass tip in the souring, you have a perfect way to dispense the soda a little at a time. Another use of baking soda is when putting sheeting together. Lay a small amount of soda on to wax paper, rub the sheeting edge in the soda hold the sheeting together. Run a small bead of thin CIA on the joint and wipe off the excess quickly. Depending on the thickness of the balsa sheeting, turn the sheeting over and apply another bead of C/A on the other side wiping quickly as you go. It is a very strong joint when dry. Try it to reinforce joints.

Spacing with Tape

We all like nice, tight fitting joints between components. If we are not careful, the thickness of covering will make it next to impossible to fit two pieces together, such as a wing sliding into a fuselage, or a hatch against a turtledeck. I like to use two to three layers of masking tape to achieve the proper spacing. For example, after the turtledeck is mounted, I will line the front side of the turtledeck with three layers of masking tape in the center as well as around the edge. Now when I fit the back of the hatch/canopy assembly, I will have proper spacing and the hatch will be easy to add and remove.

I also will use one layer of masking tape under the hatch when installing the attachment hardware. This makes it easier to align up the screw holes when the hatch is finished.

Sanding Flush

Many places on an airplane require a builder to sand one part flush with another part. An example of this is a wing that is sheeted with balsa. If the balsa is 1/16-inch thick to start with and the edges have been glued together, both sides need to be sanded smooth. Now the sheeting is less than 1/16-inch. Now it is time to glue on the tip and root. I usually make this out of light ply which sands harder than the balsa you are gluing it to. The glue also sands harder than the balsa. After the tip or root is glued on, it is time to sand the tip flush with the sheeting. I lay a sheet of paper under the back of my sanding block and sand the tip flush with the sheeting. The paper does not need to be attached to the sanding block. The sand paper grit will hold the paper to the sanding block. The paper just slides over the sheeting while you are sanding the tip. This way you are not sanding your thin sheeting thinner.