My intention is to review and evaluate various types of ignition systems used in high speed gas powered 2 cycle engines. I found that to really explain the various systems I'd need all the space that this issue of High-Flight has plus most of the next one. Therefore, I have to assume certain knowledge of the part of the reader.

The first system that we'll discuss is also the oldest. It is the Conventional Breaker Timed magneto. I won't go over all that stuff about magnets passing by a coil of wire inducing a current and an additional magnetic field. If you want an explanation of basic theory and how all the parts work write to me and I'll send you whatever you want to know. I want to help you with a little maintenance and upkeep.

The advantage of the standard magneto is that when it is properly tuned it will throw a spark with very little effort. It is also relatively inexpensive to repair, plus it's tried and true -it works! The main disadvantage is that breaker points wear, rust, corrode, and get dirty. Points need maintenance and timing and they are very moisture sensitive.

No matter what, ignition points should be inspected once a year, more under constant use. Often points are found under the flywheel, but sometimes they are under a dust cover on the opposite side of the engine. To remove a flywheel, first unscrew the flywheel fixing nut (carefully). Some flywheels (like the one found on the small Quadra) are "tapped" off with a plastic or rawhide mallet. The best way is to place your fingers around the flywheel's outside edge and pull slightly. If the engine is on a bench, lift the engine via the flywheel slightly. Tap the side of the flywheel opposite the magnets with short, sharp taps. After the 2nd or 3rd tap the flywheel will pop off. Watch for the key in the crankshaft - don't lose it. Do not put a screw driver under the flywheel and pry. Do not use a gear puller with jaws that extend over the sides of the flywheel. Do not hit the end of the crankshaft. Several engine manufacturers make available flywheel pullers. A puller is always best to use but it is usually designed for a specific engine and therefore it is not practical for most of you to go out and buy one. Now remove the dust cover under the points. Some engines don't use a dust cover under the flywheel (the small Homelites for instance).

Dress the points with a small points file or emery board. File the points carefully, but if they are pitted so that light filing won't smooth the surfaces, replace them. After filing the points, clean them very carefully. I use an aerosol cleaner designed for TV tuners called "Blue Shower". Be sure you use a cleaner that leaves no residue. A towel that leaves no lint will also work fine. Once the points are clean you must reset them for ignition timing. If there are recommended point gap clearances use them. A good example is the Quadra 35. The point gap clearance is .015 of an inch. Not .014 or .016, not the thickness of a dime, not the thickness of a matchbook, - .015! I know, lots of guys say that if you set them at .016 they will go to .015 after the point cam wears. Remember, the manufacturer also knows this, and if the maker wants a specific setting they have a valid reason.

The rest is simply re-assembly, just watch the tightness of the flywheel fixing nut. Get the nut tight, but don't use any superman moves - crankshafts are expensive. One more thing, when you change the points it is also a good idea to change the condenser. Once you're in there doing the work you might as well do it right.

Not all engine manufacturers use a printed point gap clearance. This may sound a little confusing, so let me put it the way a Japanese service rep. put it to me. "It doesn't matter how far the points open, it's when they open." He was representing Kioritz. This means that to time these types of engines you must align a timing mark on the flywheel, which is usually marked with an "F" or an "M", with a mark on the stator plate, crankcase, or armature leg. Since each engine model and series use a different timing position it would be difficult to list them all here. Once the timing marks are lined up we set the points to just break open. Since this can't be seen with the naked eye we use a timing light or buzzer to help us. A continuity tester will also work and if I note any interest in how to do this I will explain it in detail in another column. Most any qualified 2 cycle shop can make any of these adjustments.